By mountain bike through the breathtaking landscape and solitude of the Alps
Crossing the Alps has been popular for years as both a sporting challenge and a way to get out in nature. The journey across these stone giants that straddle the middle of Europe can by done in any number of ways to create a unique experience, be it on foot, by bike, or even paragliding.
For Nina Dudek, mountain biking was the chosen method of travel, and using the remotest trails possible, this experienced biker made her crossing from Mayrhofen to Bassano del Grappa.
In this interview, we talk to Nina about her motivation for doing an MTB crossing of the Alps (referred to by some as a 'Transalp'). She also reveals her particular route, which while very demanding, kept her off the beaten track.
You clearly have a passion for mountain biking. Why is that?
Because it perfectly combines some of my favorite things - hiking in the mountains and cycling - and offers the best of both worlds. I also hate walking downhill, but I do love riding down.
That's why I like to mountain bike. I also find that when you're going uphill on foot, you can take in the scenery around you because you're going slowly. This is equally the case with mountain biking - at least at a certain incline - but you can cover a lot more distance compared to hiking because the descents make you faster overall. Crossing the Alps on foot in a week simply isn't possible, but it is with a bike. You don't get better than the combination of a meditative uphill ride followed by the adrenaline rush on the way down!
Where did you get the idea of your route from and how did you plan it?
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So, what does this route offer along the way?
I really wanted to include Monte Grappa, which is steeped in history.
During the First World War, the front line ran through the Alps, and there are many places where you can still see traces of it. Monte Piana near the Drei Zinnen (Three Peaks) is one example and so is Monte Grappa. It was the last bastion before entering the Venetian plain and there is even a memorial up there. I just find it fascinating and even talking about it now gives me goosebumps. It's crazy to think about the war being fought in such a place and how it was a matter of simply trying to survive for these soldiers. At the Averau Hut, you can still see pictures of the cable cars and mule tracks - a place where people go nowadays to do downhill rides. It's weird.
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- If you're interested in the Dolomites and their role in the First World War, why not have a read of our story, "History's first mountain war - The Dolomites in the First World War''!
Which stage did you enjoy the most and why?
Definitely the second stage over the Pfundererjoch. It's a real grind up there. Super-steep, loose gravel, and you just think to yourself "Why am I doing this?".
But once you're pushing through the last few meters of altitude, you realize everything was worth it because it's just such a gigantic and lonely mountain world up there.
You come over the saddle, the wind whistles, the sun is shining, and then you see the snowfields that you will be descending through. It's pure adventure.
Funnily, we met a group up there that was also doing a crossing of the Alps, just on a different path. It was amusing to meet some fellow masochists! Those weirdoes who punish themselves in pursuit of solitude.
The downhill flowed through blooming alpine meadows, gravel hairpin bends, technical passages with steps, and then an incredibly long descent down into the valley of Bruneck. It was a great finale after the long schlep to the top.
Were there situations that really pushed you to the limit or even broke you? 6 days on the saddle is a lot. How did you manage it?
A lot of the uphills were actually really testing, but what I found hardest was the thought on the last day of it all being 'over'. I would have loved to be able to ride back. Being on the saddle all day, that wonderful tiredness in the evening, and then sleeping like a log is great, but then all of a sudden it ends and yeah, you know you have to be back in the office the day after tomorrow.
Regarding your other point, yes, 6 days in the saddle in such terrain is a lot and you have to ensure you manage things properly. All I can say is save your energy! Keep the pace down, so you can enjoy it for longer. We always set off very early too so that we had a time buffer. That peace of mind is important because if something comes up, it's good to have some breathing room in your schedule.
If you stay in a hotel, my tip is to look for one with a sauna to relax the muscles, and also ensure you apply plenty of cream in the morning! Your behind will thank you when you have to sit on the saddle for so long.
How do you learn downhill riding and what bike were you using on this trip?
My first downhill was at Reschen. My friend gave me some protection and put me on a bike. I started to ride and smacked into a rock straight away, so it probably wasn't the most elegant way to start the sport. Though I don't recommend the trial-and-error principle, I was hooked.
The key is to have good confidence and balance. There are a lot of courses available that teach you this and if you can, ride key sections regularly to build your confidence. Take your time and just try it out. In my case, practice made perfect! And of course never ride without protection, something that continues to literally save my butt as well as other parts of my body.
My bike is a Nero, has 2x10 gears and full suspension. It is an old Giant Trance, but has been tuned with Shimano XT brakes with four brake pistons to add that sensitivity I need. Needless to say, it also has a dropper seat post, which is an absolute must on the trails.
Hikers and cyclists on the trails - How does that work?
The trails were mostly hiking trails and in South Tyrol this is OK as long as there aren't any signs stating otherwise! The descent from Pfitscherjoch is very technical, but there were also hardly any people hiking up. With so few hikers and downhills that are also very wide, it was actually very easy to avoid problems. The people we did encounter were very friendly and curious to know where we'd come from. It's like everywhere in the Alps: mutual consideration and respect is the key. As a biker, you should always slow down, stop, greet, let people pass, and avoid racing if you think there's any risk.
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